To free both hands for the initial tying, clamp the twig between your knees with the ends uppermost. Tie a knot around the two twig ends. Allow a 6" tail to remain.
Tie a second knot on top of the first (without going around the twig).
Tie a "half hitch" around the twigs by making a loop and passing around the twig and back through the loop.
Now tie a half-hitch around the KNOT with the shuttle thread by making a loop above the knot, passing down between the twigs toward the center of the ring, up between the twigs, and through the loop. Pull the half hitch tight with a snap of the wrist.
Tie both threads together and pass the tail down between the twigs, around the knot, and back up between the twigs. Cut off the tail close to the twig. Pass the shuttle thread down between the twigs and pull it back against the knot. Keep the thread against the knot as you begin the next step. Your first loop on the twig will pull the thread against the knot. Lay the thread over the twig so that it spills over the edge like a waterfall, and bring the shuttle up between the wood and thread. This is a self-locking loop. Always come up behind the point where you went over the ring. You will need to adjust the distance between the points using the template:
There are seven points around the circumference of the weaving: the first is the beginning tie around the ends of the twig, then seven self-locking loops. Each of the seven line segments should be very nearly the same length. The last loop goes between the twigs, around the far side of the first tie, over and down between twigs. Please note that the traditional, authentic spider web has 12 points. It makes a much nicer weave than 7. I originally used 7 points because it represents the Seventh Fire.You must keep the loops from sliding and loosening by pinching the last loop against the twig with the thumb and forefinger of one hand while the other hand plucks the shuttle from between the fingers to weave the next loop.
Pull the sinew against the far side of the, up and over to the near side of the knot. This holds that point from being pulled toward the center.
When the sinew is inside the circle again, spiral it around the line segment two times. Pulling the spirals back toward the knot creates a spacer that holds the sinew away from the previous set of line segments keeping the second set parallel to the first.
Pass the shuttle down between the twig and sinew on the FARSIDE of the first point and bring it up on the NEARSIDE of the point. I like to do my weaving from the topside to the underside and up topside again.
Then go over the loop and in through the BACKSIDE of the loop. DO NOT GO THROUGH THE LOOP AT THE POINT. That would create a knot instead of a sliding loop. The loop made correctly creates a spacer between line segments. Always go around the backside of the loop and TOWARD THE LAST POINT. Keep reminding yourself by saying, “DOWN THE FAR SIDE, UP THE NEAR SIDE, AROUND THE BACKSIDE, TOWARD THE LAST POINT”. Pulling the sinew toward the last point woven keeps the friction at a minimum so the weave is not pulled out of parallel. First draw the sinew back toward the previous loop and then forward toward the next point. Repeat this process with the next point and the next until you have completed another cycle as in the picture below.
Only use enough tension to create straight lines. Too much tension will warp the weaving and too little will make a sloppy, floppy weave. As you shift your pinch from the previous loop to the newly created loop it is very important to temporarily pinch the sinew onto the twig with your weaving hand so that the tension can hold the weaving in place.
White Eagle Soaring: Dream Dancer of the 7th Fire
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